Beyond the brush

The hard truth about editorial and being a fashion makeup artist.

The Great Editorial Illusion: Why Magazines Pay Makeup Artists Less Than Minimum Wage

The fashion and beauty industries thrive on an illusion—one where prestige is dangled in front of artists as compensation for their work, while the financial reality is anything but glamorous. For makeup artists, hairstylists, and other creatives, editorial work is positioned as the ultimate credibility-builder. Yet, when pay end titles pay £75 for a 10+ hour day, and supplement magazines offer £120 (before tax, VAT, and expenses), if at all, the system becomes impossible to ignore. Assistants are paid even less—sometimes as low as £37.50 a day yet charge the artist £200 for their time. The sums just don’t add up. Meanwhile, magazines operate as commercial enterprises, raking in millions from advertising. This isn’t a charity—it’s a business. So why are artists expected to treat it as one?

Breaking Down the Numbers

• Fashion Magazine Day Rate: £75 (before tax, VAT, travel, and kit expenses)

• Supplement Magazines: Around £120 (again, pre-tax and costs)

• Assistant Rates: £37.50-£50 per day

• Average Hours Worked: 10+ hours per shoot

• Actual Take-Home Pay: Often negative when expenses are factored in

For reference, the UK minimum wage for over-23s is £12.60 per hour. The London Living wage is £13.85. That means a 10-hour day should legally pay £126.00 before tax. Vogue's £75 is nowhere close. If an assistant earns £37.50, that's £3.75 an hour—well below any legal standard. So why do we still do it?

The Illusion of Exposure

• Editorial work is sold as a way to get credibility and attract lucrative commercial jobs.

• Artists often feel they have to take these jobs to maintain their careers.

• The reality? Only a small percentage actually leverage editorial into high-paying opportunities.

Historically, doing editorial meant creative freedom. But today, brands and advertisers dictate most of the looks, and magazines follow their own agendas. So if the work isn’t financially viable or an outlet for creativity, what are we really getting out of it?

The Hypocrisy of Fashion’s ‘Equality’ Message

Magazines love to champion diversity, fair pay, and ethical practices—except when it comes to the very creatives who make their pages come to life. While models have (somewhat) fought for better rates and working conditions, makeup artists and hairstylists are still treated as expendable. The industry keeps creatives competing for exposure rather than fair wages, ensuring there’s always someone willing to work for free or for next to nothing.

Why Unionizing Isn’t the Answer

In film and TV, unions like BECTU and IATSE ensure minimum day rates. In hairdressing, there are trade bodies that regulate pay. But in fashion, especially in the UK, unionizing isn’t just difficult—it’s career suicide.

• The industry thrives on relationships, and often you have to take the hit on editorial in order to get booked on a commercial job with that same team.

• Many artists are freelancers, meaning there’s no collective bargaining power.

• If you push for higher pay, there’s always someone willing to do the job for exposure alone.

So if collective action isn’t an option, what is?

The Role of Agencies—A Double-Edged Sword

Big agencies are often better at negotiating fairer deals for their artists, but getting representation with a top-tier agency is no easy feat. You need a brilliant and vibrant portfolio of editorial. Even when an artist lands a prestigious agent, there’s another problem: some of the biggest agencies are actively driving down prices just to secure bookings for their artists.

• Traditionally lucrative work—like press junkets—no longer pays what it used to.

• Streaming giants like Netflix are offering shockingly low rates for full days of press.

• Agencies, eager to get their artists attached to celebrities (hoping it leads to more work), often accept these low fees, keeping prices stagnant.

This means artists are stuck in a cycle where they take lower-paying jobs for exposure, but the rate never increases because agencies are willing to accept less just to get their clients on set.

The Editorial Gatekeeping Problem

Beyond financial struggles, getting editorial work in the first place is an exclusive game. It’s not just about talent—it’s about access to the right circles.

• Many artists find that breaking into editorial requires relationships with key people—stylists, photographers, and editors—who control who gets hired.

• Networking is essential, and without the right connections, even a highly skilled artist might struggle to get booked.

• Editorial teams often stick to the same small pool of artists, making it difficult for new talent to break in.

So even before you get underpaid, you have to fight to get into the room. And once you’re in, the reality of poor pay makes staying in editorial work unsustainable long-term unless it has materialised in to a commercial career.

The Assistant Problem—Who Pays?

Another financial strain is the need for assistants. Decades ago, assistants would work for free in exchange for experience, but today, most expect payment—and rightly so. However:

• Magazine budgets don’t cover assistant costs.

• The lead artist sometimes has to pay assistants out of pocket without fully knowing the ability of that assistant.

• While the lead artist benefits most from a successful job, is it fair for them to take on even more financial burden?

• Where does this cycle end?

Building Your Own Ladder to Success

Despite these challenges, success in this industry is possible. The key is to build your own path rather than waiting for opportunities to come to you. Here’s how:

1. Define Your Own Success – Success isn’t just getting booked for editorial work. It’s about having a career that aligns with your values, whether that’s working with brands, teaching, or launching your own products.

2. Diversify Your Income Streams – Don’t rely solely on editorial. Explore brand collaborations, social media monetization, education, or even launching your own beauty product (although that is no easy road…more on that later) .

3. Leverage Your Network Strategically – Building genuine relationships with stylists, photographers, and brands can open doors. Engage with your community and be visible.

4. Focus on Your Personal Brand – Your work should speak for itself, but in today's world, having a strong social media presence and online portfolio is crucial.

5. Stay Adaptable – The industry is changing fast. Artists who evolve with trends, tech, and new platforms are the ones who thrive.

The Joy of Hard Work Paying Off

Yes, the road is tough, but nothing compares to the joy of seeing your hard work lead to something meaningful. Whether it’s securing a dream client, launching a successful brand, or simply having the freedom to create on your own terms, the feeling of accomplishment is unmatched.

If the traditional paths aren’t paying off, build your own. The opportunities are there—you just have to carve out your own space in this ever-evolving industry.

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My Backstage Moment: The Stylist vs. The Photographer

There’s a moment in every makeup artist’s career when they’re forced to make a choice. Mine came during an editorial shoot where the stylist—who got me the job—wanted one thing, and the photographer—who had the power to shape the final image—wanted another.

I backed the stylist, out of loyalty and gratitude. But in this industry, choices have long-term consequences. The stylist moved on, and the photographer? They’re still working at the highest level—but I’m not on their call sheet anymore.

Lesson learned? Strategic loyalty is key. Pick your battles wisely because today’s decision affects tomorrow’s opportunities.

🔥 Real Talk Tip

Be savvy and strategic—but never fake.

In fashion, everyone is watching. Your choices, your energy, your professionalism—it all matters. The goal isn’t to manipulate or play politics, but to be aware of how the industry works. Align yourself with people who uplift you, make smart moves, and always be genuine. Fake alliances fade fast, but strategic, authentic connections last a lifetime.

✨ Pro Kit Pick of the Week

Rhode Glazing Milk – A model favorite for deep hydration and a healthy glow, this lightweight essence is a backstage essential for reviving tired, travel-worn skin and providing a fun talking point (everyone always wants to talk about it!!)

💬 Let’s Talk!

What’s the toughest editorial dilemma you’ve faced? Have you ever had to navigate industry politics and make a choice that shaped your career? Drop a comment—I want to hear your stories.

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